Tourism collapse cripples Haiti’s coastal oasis, Jacmel

By Danise Davide Lejustal | Haitian Times ContributorJACMEL— Once a thriving tourist destination, Jacmel—Haiti’s coastal gem and cultural hub in the southeast—is now grappling with the fallout from the rampant gang-fueled insecurity plaguing the country’s capital city and surrounding areas. Known for its vibrant arts scene and rich history, Jacmel’s hospitality sector has been hit hard by the escalating gang violence in the Port-au-Prince metropolitan area, keeping both foreign and local visitors at bay.

As violence escalates and gangs occupy the main part of the 52-mile road from Port-au-Prince to the capital city of the Southeast Department here, hotels and restaurants are facing unprecedented challenges. In a series of interviews with The Haitian Times, business owners lamented the near-total absence of customers, leaving them struggling with a harsh economic reality.

“We used to be so busy daily with the influx of tourists and locals alike frequenting our restaurant,” said Christel André-Paul, a restaurant owner in Jacmel for 13 years. 

“But now, we don’t sell anything. Not even a beer on the weekend.”

Jacmel, just over four dozen miles away from the Haitian capital, has long been a key tourist destination known for its picturesque coastal setting, artistic community, and historical significance. The town, which covers about 171 square miles, was declared a “Creative City” by UNESCO in 2014. However, rampant gang violence in connected areas like Martissant, Carrefour, and Gressier—which control the southern entrance to Port-au-Prince—has crippled the region’s tourism industry.

Efforts to increase visitors’ interest and offer good hospitality 

The port city is internationally known for its vibrant sceneries and elegant townhouses dating from the 19th century. Among the wealth of arts and crafts available in Jacmel are the papier-mâchés done by nearly 200 artisans and the renowned Atelier created by Moro Baruk.

In recent years, the city has hosted a prominent film festival called the Jacmel Film Festival, which started in 2004. In 2007, the international Jacmel Music Festival was also successfully launched.

Jacmel’s annual carnival, the nearby Bassin Bleu waterfall—Haiti’s most famous natural deep pools—and the scenic white sand beaches, such asTimouillage, Cabic, Raymond-les-bains, located primarily in Cayes-Jacmel, attract many visitors. The town is considered one of the safest in the country, and tourists who visit Haiti seeking tranquility often go for Jacmel.

According to World Data, in 2021, Haiti’s tourism sector generated approximately $80 million, a significant decrease from around $450 million in 2019. This decline was largely due to the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on global travel and the increasing insecurity climate, with the U.S. Department of State continuously issuing “do not travel” security alerts for the country.

Although specific figures for Jacmel’s contribution to Haiti’s overall tourism revenue are unavailable, Jacmel’s role in the industry is crucial. That’s why the town has recently been a focus of the government’s development efforts and niche market targeting.

Haiti’s Ministry of Tourism invested around US$40 million to promote tourism in Jacmel. The ministry funded training sessions for hotel managers and artisans. It improved Bassin Bleu and Raymond-Les-Bains, created a carnival interpretation center, and restored buildings along Rue du Commerce. 

Efforts were made to promote Jacmel as a tourist destination, focusing on its tranquil beaches and building earthquake-proof visitor facilities. The tourism ministry also targeted niche markets such as surfers, “mission tourists,” and vodou tourism.

The commune’s urbanization has been increasing primarily due to the income generated by tourism. Royal Caribbean, the leading tourism company whose cruise ships regularly dock at Labadee in northern Haiti, plans to add stopovers at Jacmel. 

The area’s extraordinary attractions include a cloudless, bright blue sky, soft sand beaches, and inviting warm water in the Caribbean Sea’s unmistakable azure and turquoise shades.

For now, tourists are the only thing missing from this tranquil Haiti’s southeastern coast.

A day before the devastating January 2010 earthquake, Choice Hotels announced they would open a 120-room Comfort Inn in Jacmel, the first chain hotel to be opened there in a decade.

After the earthquake that caused heavy damage and casualties in Jacmel, a Miami-based construction company decided to help revitalize the city. This initiative was created to help stimulate a self-sustaining tourism economy in Haiti.

Michael Capponi, the founder of the Capponi Group, formed the Jacmel Advisory Council to help revitalize the town while preserving its arts, culture, and traditions. The board promotes best practices to provide a socio-economic system for thousands of Haitians living in the southeast region.

Capponi Group Haiti is also restoring a 200-year-old coffee-sorting house at the port of Jacmel. The project hopes to make Jacmel an attractive commercial and tourist center again.

Restaurants on the brink

Christel André-Paul is not alone in her struggles. Other restaurant and bar owners echo her frustrations, pointing to the rising cost of living and the plummeting purchasing power of their remaining local customers.

“It’s even worse for dishes made with fish, goat, and griot,”  André-Paul added. “I buy the meat, hoping someone will place an order, but it often goes to waste.”

Jacmel’s tourism sector has been in decline since the second half of 2018, during the violent peyi lòk (country in lockdown) protests. The situation has deteriorated rapidly as insecurity worsened. 

According to Serge Pierre-Louis, who owns a restaurant on Barranquilla Avenue, the inability to source ingredients and rising prices have forced him to reduce his menu to a single daily dish.

“For three years, no one has been able to move freely due to the insecurity at the southern entrance to the capital,” Pierre-Louis told The Haitian Times. “We used to have customers from all over the world and across Haiti, but now it’s impossible.”

Ketlyne Lubin, who owns a bar, expressed similar concerns: “I can open all day and not sell a single bottle of water,” she said. “Before, I made enough to pay my debts and buy goods. Now, I can barely keep my business going.”

Hotels struggle for survival

The hotel industry in Jacmel has also been severely impacted. Hotel Florita, a historic hotel housed in a 19th-century building, is now operating at just 5% occupancy. According to Jean Ruid Sénatus, the hotel’s manager for over 30 years, the contrast between past and present is abruptly stark.

“In 2017, we had an occupancy rate of 60%, mostly foreigners from Europe and North America,” Sénatus said. “Now, I can go more than a month without a single guest. We’re decapitalized.”

Hotel Florita is not alone in its struggles. The 32-room capacity Cap Lamandou Hotel perched on the cliff of La Saline, within walking distance from Jacmel’s historic center, has seen its summer occupancy rate drop from 90% to 30%, according to its director, Bertrand Destiné.

“Summer used to be our most profitable season,” Destiné said. “Now, tourists are canceling their reservations at the last minute because of the insecurity.”

Jean-Mary Révolus, manager of Manoir Adriana Hotel, also echoed Destiné’s experience.

To cope without tourists, these hotel managers have introduced new strategies to attract more local customers, including special packages for birthdays, free dance classes, conferences, and seminars. However, these efforts have had little to no success as residents face economic hardship.

“Even though we offer special deals, local customers aren’t taking advantage of them because they can’t afford it,” Sénatus said.

A glimmer of hope amidst nostalgia

Despite the dire situation, Jacmel’s charms still attract interest from abroad. Many Haitians living in the diaspora express a longing to return, but fear for their safety keeps them away.

“I haven’t been back to Haiti since 2018 because of the gangs,” said Samuel Chéry, who lives abroad. “I miss the beaches and the seafood, but I can’t risk traveling under the current conditions.”

This is a broken dream for Jacmel’s future.

Investments in developments brought a burst of activity and job creation to Jacmel, filling the city with hope for its future as a top tourist destination.

But the rise in violence and insecurity has shattered these dreams.

“It’s sad to see all this momentum destroyed because of the negligence of our leaders,” said Destiné. 

“Our country has become a battlefield, and Jacmel’s future is at risk.”