I see Rome making slightly more of an effort post-pandemic to be a city for the people. There are bike lanes appearing sporadically and plenty of pedestrianized areas of the center. With the upcoming Jubilee year, and the millions of pilgrims it will bring, there are also some new pedestrian passageways in the works. However, what first comes to mind when I think of traffic in Rome is the classic game Frogger, where he tries to cross multiple lanes of unpredictable traffic. Add electric scooters and zipping motorini in the mix and you have quite the urban setting.
When I first moved to Rome in 2010, it was rare to see joggers but this is also slowly changing, so you won’t be fully alone if you head out for a run. (Though, I will say that most Italians still seem to favor a gym over individual exercise outside).
The best time to run in Rome is early morning. The city can be packed with crowds that make it impossible to navigate later in the day. Morning is also when traffic is lightest and you will have more space along thoroughfares without the distractions of cars and bikes. Also keep in mind that Rome is a safe city, but parks tend to close (or are better to avoid) after nightfall. Bur before 8 am (and even 9 am in the summer), and you feel like the city is essentially all yours.
But speaking of tours, if you want your first run in Rome to be with an experienced guide, you should absolutely contact ArcheoRunning.
Rome offers several great places for a run, combining historical landmarks, beautiful parks, and scenic routes. Here are some popular places in Rome where you can enjoy a run:
- Villa Borghese: This expansive park in the heart of Rome is an great location for a run. The easiest way to access it is from Piazza del Popolo. Villa Borghese has wide paths, lush greenery – including plenty of umbrella pines – and scenic views. You can jog around the park’s tranquil laghetto (mini lake), explore its gardens, and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere. There are paved walking paths for runners, as well as tracks to take through the grass.
- Villa Doria Pamphilj: Another large park (though outside of the center of Rome), Villa Doria Pamphilj, provides a fantastic space for running. It features numerous trails and paths, both paved and unpaved, which wind through gardens, woods, and open fields. The park’s vastness allows you to customize your route and enjoy nature along the way.
- Appia Antica Regional Park: Known as the Appian Way, this ancient road offers a unique running experience. Lined with ruins, catacombs, and the beautiful countryside, there is no other place to find a backdrop like this for a jog. The park also offers other trails and paths that you can explore. This is best for a run on Sundays because the main road is closed to traffic. Otherwise, you need to navigate a narrow cobblestone street without a sidewalk, and the cars often go a bit too fast for comfort.
- Tiber River Promenade: The riverside promenade along the Tiber River offers a good route for runners through the center of the city. You can run along the wide, paved path that stretches for several kilometers, along the river, bridges, and changing view of Rome’s skyline. It’s a popular spot for both locals and tourists – especially for bikers. During summer, the central part of this promenade is taken over by river bars and shops, as well as a cinema on the island. I would otherwise avoid the path very early or very late, when it is a bit too deserted and isolated.
- Pincian Hill: Located near Villa Borghese, Pincian Hill provides a hillier terrain for those seeking a more challenging run. The hill offers stunning views of Rome’s historic center, including Piazza del Popolo and St. Peter’s Basilica. The paths are well-maintained, making it a popular spot for urban runners. Note: you should search the Italian name ‘Pincio’ on maps.
- Janiculum Hill: Situated above Trastevere, Janiculum Hill offers panoramic views of Rome. The hill’s paths are suitable for running, and you can enjoy the scenic vistas while exploring the area. Getting up the hill is half the workout – you can take a winding road or opt for epic stairs to access the hill (known as the Gianicolo in Italian).
- Caffarella Park: Located near the Appia Antica Regional Park, Caffarella Park is a large nature reserve with meadows, fields, and paths. It’s an ideal place for a peaceful and serene run away from the city traffic. There are large fields and farms along the dirt path, and you may well come across a flock of sheep or three while out on this route.
Please note that opening hours and accessibility may vary, so it’s a good idea to check the operating hours of parks in particular. Take car if you are wearing headphones because the traffic in the city really is hard to navigate… you can’t always expect cars to stop at crosswalks and motorini tend to swerve around the cars that do.